| If anyplace on earth is a natural paradise, Plitvice | | | | all come in July and August. "Please tell people to |
| Lakes National Park in Croatia is that place. Of all | | | | come in spring and autumn, if they can" my guide |
| Croatia's eight National Parks, Plitvice is the oldest | | | | begged me. The newly renovated hotels are now |
| and most visited. It's easy to see why. Bears and | | | | completely booked up in the summer and the |
| wolves lurk in its primeval forest; schools of | | | | walkways are elbow to elbow with camera |
| silvery fish dart through its pristine rivers; its | | | | clickers. |
| beech trees are a cacophony of chattering birds. | | | | Although missing the summer greenery, I quickly |
| The crown jewels are the 16 translucent lakes | | | | grew to appreciate the bare trees that allowed an |
| connected to each other by a breathtaking series | | | | unobstructed view of the lakes and falls. It was |
| of cascades. Dazzling as the Plitvice national park | | | | clear that the lake system is divided into four |
| appeared on a recent visit, I couldn't help recalling | | | | lower and twelve upper lakes. Just past the main |
| that this exceptional site was a war zone during | | | | entrance, the Korana River drops a torrent of |
| the breakup of former Yugoslavia. | | | | water 258 feet into a frothing pool that begins |
| Located near Croatia's then- disputed border with | | | | the lower lakes. Lying at the bottom of a canyon, |
| Bosnia-Hercegovina, the park's troubles began in | | | | the narrow lower lakes are bordered by steep |
| 1991 when the Yugoslav army seized the park | | | | limestone walls and climb like a giant staircase to |
| and turned it into an army barracks. The Croatian | | | | the upper lakes. Wider and surrounded by dense |
| army forced them out in 1995 but, a year later, | | | | forest, the upper lakes lie on a bed of dolomite. |
| the effects of war were everywhere. The area | | | | At the very top, the White and Black rivers are |
| surrounding the park was a nightmarish landscape | | | | the spigots that water the park. The high mineral |
| of bombed out houses and abandoned farms. The | | | | content of the lakes explains their extraordinary |
| park's three hotels were shot to pieces and part | | | | colors, which range from day-glow green to deep |
| of the lake system was closed while specialists | | | | azure. |
| removed mines from the falls and forests. | | | | Examining the crystalline water of the top lake, I |
| Shaking off the aura of gloom, I set out to tour | | | | noticed that the leaves and branches settled on |
| the park that UNESCO had named a world | | | | the bottom were acquiring a metallic coating. It |
| heritage site. Even with only half the park open, I | | | | was the travertine process in action. The water |
| was soon entranced. | | | | absorbs minerals from the dolomite underlying the |
| Miles of wooden walkways wound over, under | | | | upper lakes and coats the plant life, turning it to |
| and alongside the falls. From merry two-foot | | | | porous travertine stone. The new travertine |
| bubblers to long walls laced with foam, the falling | | | | sprouts moss and plants that again petrify and |
| water was everywhere. I resolved to return one | | | | the process repeats itself. All the barriers |
| day when the park had been rebuilt. | | | | separating the upper lakes are composed of |
| It happened that my grand return to Plitvice | | | | travertine constantly growing and changing shape. |
| occurred this year at the end of a long, hard | | | | If you go to Plitvice, you don't need to stay long |
| winter in central Croatia. Although I had visions of | | | | enough to turn to travertine but the park merits |
| tranquil lakes shimmering under a blue sky the | | | | more time than it usually gets. Lying about 85 |
| weather turned out to be cold, foggy and damp. | | | | miles north of Zadar and south of Zagreb, many |
| But damp is good in Plitvice. Between the melting | | | | people rush through the park on their way to or |
| winter snow and days of rain, much of the park | | | | from the coast. It's possible to see a lot of |
| was a roaring mass of water. Water pounded into | | | | waterfalls in three or four hours but you'll need a |
| swollen lakes, flooded out the walkways and | | | | number of days to fully explore the trails. The |
| splashed through the trees. It was splendid. | | | | three-star Hotel Jezero is the best of the park's |
| Even better was the lack of other visitors. In the | | | | three hotels but there are plenty of small |
| intervening nine years, Plitvice Lakes National Park | | | | pensions and private rooms in the villages around |
| has become Croatia's busiest tourist attraction | | | | the park. |
| welcoming some 750,000 tourists a year. Nearly | | | | |