| My wife and I don't like to stay in hotels. For one | | | | Gozo at least once on a visit. It gives a totally |
| thing, we aren't independently wealthy. Even if we | | | | different perspective of Malta and is like travelling |
| were, we would rather spend our money on | | | | back a century, if you can ignore ignore the |
| exotic meals than on a place to rest our heads | | | | houses and buildings that stretch across the |
| for a few hours. We also love to meet the people | | | | horizon as you approach Mgarr, that is. The ferry |
| who stay in bed and breakfasts and guest | | | | costs 2.50 Lira and is charged on your return to |
| houses. We've met fellow-lodgers from all over | | | | Malta.When you arrive on Gozo, take a taxi for a |
| the world and have had some of the most | | | | tour. It is much better than the scheduled tours |
| interesting conversations of our lives with them.If | | | | and the driver will take you wherever you want |
| you want to go to Malta but haven't made plans, | | | | to go or recommend stops. Be sure you haggle |
| this is what I recommend you do. First of all, don't | | | | with him on price. It's expected and you should be |
| plan to go in the summer. It's too darned hot! Any | | | | able to book one for as little as 10 Lira for much |
| of the winter months are fine. Even if it gets a bit | | | | of a day. By the way, you can fit six into some |
| cold at night, it warms up to 50-55 (Fahrenheit) | | | | of the SUV taxis.As you travel throughout both |
| by the afternoon. The best time to go is in March | | | | islands, you will find hundreds of nice restaurants |
| or April, when it's 10-15 degrees warmer. | | | | where you can get a decent meal for less than |
| Everything is still green and it is warm all day | | | | three Maltese Lira. Don't forget to stop in for a |
| without being uncomfortable. It is also before the | | | | pastizzi at one of the thousands of eateries on |
| tourist season and restaurants and hotels are | | | | the island, but don't eat too many. They're a |
| looking for business. Mid-September through | | | | cheese-filled croissant, loaded with calories and |
| November are great, too.After you've decided | | | | cholesterol. One of my favorite, if pricy, |
| when you want to go, search the web for cheap | | | | restaurants on either island is the Ta Kolina in |
| international flights to London. The first time we | | | | Sliema. Their octopus stew is out of this |
| went there, in 1994, my wife and I spent about | | | | world.Visit Marsaxlokk early on a weekday |
| $299 each including taxes and other charges. The | | | | morning before the open-air market opens. You |
| prices are still much the same. After you've | | | | will find fishermen mending their nets next to the |
| booked your flight, contact Air Malta to schedule | | | | same colorful boats their ancestors used.There |
| one of the twice daily flights from Heathrow or | | | | are endless churches to visit. St. John's |
| Gatwick to Malta. You can arrange to spend some | | | | Co-Cathedral is breathtaking with the rectangles |
| time in England or just go directly to Malta without | | | | on the floors serving as glorious tombtones for |
| leaving the London airport. (Avoid the food!)The | | | | the Knights of Malta buried below. There are |
| next thing is to schedule a place to stay. will give | | | | hundreds of museums to visit, too. If you like |
| you information about flats as well as guest | | | | history, one of the best is the War Rooms near |
| houses and hotels. If more than two people will be | | | | the Valletta ramparts. There you'll find the NAAFI |
| travelling, I recommend leasing a flat. It is much | | | | canteen at the old World War II command center. |
| less expensive than a hotel and much more | | | | You can sip tea at the same place Winston |
| enjoyable. If only one or two people, I suggest a | | | | Churchill did during his visit. Best of all, though, are |
| guest house for the ambience and a place to | | | | the numerous antiquities that have made Malta a |
| meet fascinating international guests. The Soleado | | | | favorite haunt of archeologists. Ggijantia Temple in |
| Guest House in Sliema is our personal favorite. | | | | Gozo predates the pyramids. Be sure to make a |
| You can read about it in another of my | | | | reservation to see the Hypogeum at Tarxien. Find |
| ezinearticles.When on Malta, use the public | | | | out about other historical preservations through |
| transportation, although you will likely need to take | | | | Din l-Art Helwa; their website is on Google.There |
| a cab from the airport. (It can be one of the | | | | are hundreds of other places to visit and you can |
| most expensive items on your visit.) You may be | | | | find some under my name at Sahha u habibierja, |
| tempted to ride in one of horsedrawn carozzin, | | | | which means health and friendship in Maltese.John |
| but it will cost you 6 Lira (triple that to get the | | | | Anderson is the author of The Cellini Masterpiece, |
| cost in dollars). And be careful with your money | | | | written under the pen name of Raymond John. |
| around the drivers. Fares on the buses run about | | | | The story, a tense international thriller, is set on |
| 20c-30c Maltese (60c-90c US.) I also recommend | | | | Malta and can provide a good travel primer for |
| at least one trip on the ferry that runs between | | | | the islands. Read the first chapter of his book and |
| Valletta and Sliema. (80c Maltese.) If you like night | | | | ask John questions at his website: There you will |
| life, go to Paceville; you'll swear you are in New | | | | also find a link to the Soleado Guest House, |
| York. St. Julians is lively, too.There is another ferry | | | | where you can a mini-tour of the hotel. |
| ride; this one mandatory. Every tourist must see | | | | |