Cogne's Winter Wonderland

As the mother of young children, I havevisitors enjoy the Children's Playroom which
fantasized about the perfect winter get-away. Mycontains authentic desks from A 19th century
children, now 8 and 10, are fairly independent, butschool house, wooden toys, bouncing balls, a
winter activities, be it skiing or sledding, inevitablypuppet theater, legos and other surprises. Next
require extra effort on the part of parents todoor to this room is a family movie theater for
assist. Socks pulled up, pants leg down, snowevening viewing. The hotel also runs three
pants up, inner pant leg back up, so pull it down,restaurants -- one with a Michelen Star. We really
left ski boot on, right ski boot on, left one hurts,enjoyed a gastronomic evening of "family fondue"
left one off -- Add to that the necessity ofat the Bar à Fromage in front of a roaring
driving from hotel to ski rental shop, a shuttle tofire. At La Brassierie du Bon Bec, we had La
the slopes and back again, and a "relaxing" winterBraserade where "braciere" was put on our table,
family vacation becomes nothing more than awith sausages, potatoes and Reblochon cheese to
different kind of work.be melted. At the end of the dish, crepes
Imagine instead a gracious manor house in asuzettes are made directly on the braciere. The
valley amidst the towering mountains of Valleloving hand four generations of the Jeantet-Roullet
'd'Aosta, Italy which just happens to have wonfamily is evident in every nook and cranny of this
the 2006 Spa Trophy awarded by Relais Chateau.family-owned hotel. No where have I seen such a
Imagine further that this hotel overlooks a parcocombination of rustic charm and sophisticated
neve (snow park) complete with cross-countryelegance.
trails, small downhill course and tubing with roullezBut the fun does not stop at the doors of the
tappez (electric side-walk) to carry you back uphotel. The aero club Valle D'Aosta will take you
the hill, a trampoline and lounge chairs on theflying, gliding or parachuting over and around
snow, warmed by the sun's rays (sunglasses andMonte Bianco/Mont Blanc. A horse drawn sled will
sunscreen a must). If you dare, imagine furtheralso take you for a memorable ride through the
that three steps from the hotel and the park is asnowy valley of Valnontey. Centro di Turismo
ski rental at about nine Euros (12 U.S.) a day, andEquestre "Le Traineau" +39 333 314 7248. We
a five minute walk down the road, a chairlift foropted to spend our non-sking, non-spa time
more advanced skiers at about 10 Euro a day (13training to become the leader of a dog sled team
US). Tired kids? Throw their skis in the hotelswith Signor Genta. The kids were safely tucked
shed for a while (every room has its' own locker)inside a dog sled and team lead by a professional.
and warm up inside with a cup of tea or hotI was given my own sled, some instruction, and
chocolate in front of a noce carved fireplace.off I went, the leader of my own team. Although
Sound like a fantasy? Such a place really exists atthrilling, I felt like I was on some wild ride at
the HOTEL BELLEVUE and it's not located in aDisney where the brakes malfunctioned. It was
fabricated 1980s ski village that sprang upgreat fun, but is definitely for those of you who
overnight. It exists in Cogne, an 11th centuryfind yourself in excellent physical shape (I am not,
Italian mountain village at 1534 meters altitude. Itunfortunately, in this sector of the population) and
lies within the border of the National Park "Granwho like a good thrill (I am at least part of the
Paradiso," designated as such in 1922 for itssecond group). Sled dogs, I learned, really like to
beauty and unique fogliage and fauna. The hotelpull, the faster the better, and it takes good
itself has so many benefits for families, it isbalance and strength to keep WITH the sled.
difficult to know where to start. The spa areaNext time, I'd opt for a "kid" seat, tucked away in
with its pool and Jacuzzi with recliners and hydro-a toasty sled, letting the professionals do all the
massage is enjoyable for all but the smallestwork, listening to the snow swish by, taking in the
visitors. As for particular spa treatments, they arescenery and the passion of the dogs whisking me
for the enjoyment of Mom and Dad, while smallerthrough a field of white powder.